Best of Napa

Cuvaison’s Small Lot program showcases small production of unique wines “of character and complexity and which explore different styles and techniques.” I have reviewed many of their Small Lot wines over the years and they have all excelled. Therefore, it’s exciting to once again taste a new Small Lot Chardonnay. As with all Small Lot wines, these are estate grown.

2024 marks the 20th vintage for Spottswoode’s Lyndenhurst label. The original goal is still the same: use all five Bordeaux varietals and pull fruit from the estate as well as other exceptional Napa vineyards, all of which are organically grown. In doing so this wine allows for, “a broader expression of Napa Valley, while applying the same philosophy that shapes our Estate Cabernet,” says winemaker Aron Weinkauf.

Chappellet excels at most anything they do. So this Hideaway Vineyard Cabernet, a 100% Cabernet, should be no surprise that it’s a deftly made wine. From the outset this is a rich, structured wine. It begins with moderate to heavy tannins, which support black cherry, blackberry, light campfire smoke, rhubarb, black tea leaf, soft cedar, wild flower and herbs, and light clove. Aged in mainly new French oak to subdue the tannins, this high elevation Cabernet fruit from Pritchard Hill is classic Napa Cabernet – ripe but restrained.

Chappellet has been growing Cabernet Franc for 35 years, planted at a time when Franc was merely considered a blending grape. Comprised of 78% Cabernet Franc (there are small amounts of four other grapes), Chappellet had a made bold choice to produce a stand-alone wine from this grape. Sure, Franc has been made in the U.S. as a stand-alone, and the Loire Valley is ripe with iterations of Franc - most notably in Chinon and St. Dennis. But Franc in California and Franc in France are quite different. That difference aside, Chappellet does an admirable job crafting a very enjoyable wine.

Chappellet has long been devoted to its Chenin Blanc, even when it wasn’t really in favor. This iteration - frankly the best in years - offers lovely aromatics and a soft mouth feel, a white wine that doesn’t want to be aggressive, but one that seduces you. There are notes of light resin, lemon peel, lime kefir, hints of apricot, tangerine and orange zest. The acidity is what really supports this wine, allowing it to be a food companion for a variety of diverse foods, or even a stand-alone cocktail wine with a cheese platter.

Plush is not a usual descriptor for a wine, however this Cabernet is like velvet; smooth, silky, tactile, luxurious…effortless. The moderately tight tannic structure supports black cherry, boysenberry, blueberry and huckleberry fruit notes, while the wood influence provides a sense of stability, almost like a guardrail, keeping the fruit, acidity and tannins in check. This is one of those wines that when you drink it you are reminded of how different iterations of Cabernet can be, and at this moment, the polished feel of this wine is like an old friend, comfortable and welcomed.

Since the early 1990s, Paraduxx has created blended red wine to show off the Napa Valley. A bit larger and more macerated than previous vintages, it is still nonetheless an enjoyable, solid wine. The tannins are a little more aggressive here with the fruit being both expressive but still subdued. The more noticeable element is the oak; an 18-month program of both French and Hungarian, with 40% of the barrels being brand new. The composition is 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, then diminishing proportions of Zinfandel, Malbec, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Sirah, in that order.