Best of Sonoma

Known for Pinot Noir, Kosta Browne has embarked on a Chardonnay program for a number of years but only recently has given the single vineyards wines turbo-charged attention.” “Elevating our Chardonnay to the same level as our Pinot Noirs is something our team takes great pride in,” says winemaker Julien Howsepian. This stellar example of Chardonnay allows for light malolactic fermentation, bright acidity, crisp fruit and minerality. This offers seductive notes of crème brûlée, lemon chiffon, lime kefir, sweet resin, apricot, white peach and delicate herbal wildflowers.

A moody Pinot Noir, this offers deeper expressive fruit, easy drinkability and makes for a solid food companion (I had this with pesto pasta but the suggestions are quite extensive – game, duck, salmon, hearty vegetarian, etc.). This presents black cherry, blackberry, plum, and light rhubarb with back notes of dried tealeaf, wildflowers, cola and sandalwood. The specific use of Pommard clones gives this some darker fruit elements.

The Nightwing Chardonnay, which I have reviewed favorably for several vintages, again nails something unusual – a Chardonnay that encompasses all the best of Chardonnay from everywhere – great acidity, expressive fruit, tactile mouth feel, pure pleasure, and lastly, a great food companion. You’ll notice lemon meringue, apricot, white peach, Asian pear, blood orange, a whisper of butterscotch and resin, and lime kefir. Keeping the fruit lively the wine was barrel fermented, aged on the lees for 10 months and only used 23% new French oak.

Davis Bynum has a long history in Sonoma, dating back to the early 1970s and has long promoted Sonoma wine before Sonoma was known for its dynamic wines it is today. This 2022 uses six different Chardonnay clones from various blocks on their property to craft a classic Sonoma Chardonnay. You’ll find lemon curd, light resin, apricot, honeysuckle and white peach where the acidity supports the fruit.

As Pinot Noir goes, this is quite simply a very pretty wine. Sure, that’s not the sort of descriptor that most reviews use, but it is accurate. Subtle, soft, almost subversive, this is a Pinot that doesn’t announce itself, it doesn’t brag, it simply waits in the glass for you to try it. There is noticeable but subdued fruit; black cherry, pomegranate, Rainer cherry, light strawberry, pomegranate but they are wonderfully melded together so that nothing stands out – except for the quality of the wine in your glass at that moment.

Emeritus has long had a love affair with Pinot Noir, always seeking new ways to let grapes and ground express what’s in the bottle. This 2020 offers bright fruits of wild cherry, raspberry, pomegranate, plum with back notes of light green tea leaf, very light cola, and light earthiness and minerality - notes that Sonoma coast fruit is known for. There is a nice velvety viscosity to this as well as mild tannins that support the fruit and mellow out the overall feel of the wine.

With fruit coming from Heintz Ranch, which has been operational since 1912, this wine offers soft and delicate fruit, it does not pretend to be overt. There is noticeable, black cherry, strawberry, huckleberry, with earthy under notes and light green tea. Whereas the acidity is in check, there is a velvety quality to this, a tactile, drinking experience. 186 cases. The judicious use of oak aging allows for purity of fruit. ORIGIN: Russian River Valley, Sonoma. ALCOHOL: 13.5%.

Harvested from five different vineyard sources, winemaker Bibiana Gonzalez Rave says her goal is to define “the specificity of a dry, beautifully intense wine, yet with volume and texture.” And this she does quite well. Her 2022 Sauvignon Blanc is a little softer than past vintages but nonetheless offers bright, expressive fruit – lemongrass, lime zest, guava, apricot Asian pair, and Green Apple. The acidity is fairly mild, and this proves to be a very drinkable wine with enough to use it for different types of food. 3,400 cases. ORIGIN: Sonoma County. ALCOHOL: 13.7%.

What a beauty.  This wine is drinking great and while it may age gracefully, it won't get more enjoyable for my tastes.  Purple in color with ruby swirls.  The nose has red licorice, black cherries, cherries and spice.  On the palate, this has a wonderful texture.  Juicy acidity.  Lots of cherry fruit over a bit of char.  Long finish.  This is delicious on its own.  Gulpable.  It will work with roasted or grilled meats, veggies or fowl but needs bigger foods.  It should be at this level for another five years and then start morphing into more of a claret style.