Flying Goat has been making wine in Santa Barbara for nearly 25 years. Best known for his various expressions of Pinot Noir, winemaker Norm Yost also produces sparkling wine and Pinot Gris. This is the first time Norm has used Gris fruit from the Shoestring Vineyard and the result is a bright, expressive, tasty Pinot Gris that will make you rethink just how good Pinot Gris can be. This has it all: citrus fruit, proper acidity, smooth on the palate and a wonderful finish.

Santa Barbara is Pinot Noir country, and the range of expressions in this county are varied. One of the stalwarts, having first started in 1975, is Lucas & Lewellen. For an inexpensive Pinot Noir, L&L does an admirable job of crafting a tightly wound Pinot with excellent fruit, good acidity, and oak influence (a mere 10 months in oak, only a small portion of which was new French) which doesn’t break the bank.

Comprised entirely of Cabernet Sauvignon, this differs from many Napa Cabernet in that there is a quiet rusticity to this wine. Rather than bright up front fruit, the fruit here is rather muted, offering blackberry, light blueberry, Rainer cherry, cocoa powder and white pepper. The tannic structure is fairly tight with a dusty, earthy quality. The light oak aging in all French oak provides the vanilla and campfire notes while giving the tannins room to exercise their importance in balancing the wine.

Cuvaison’s Small Lot program (typically wines produced under 300 cases) has been a goldmine for Cuviason and winemaker Steve Rogstad who shows his deft touch with nearly every wine in this portfolio. Using Pinot Noir heirloom clones (including Swan, a personal favorite of mine) this is clearly a step away from most Pinot Noir on the market. This drinks more Burgundian than California. The fruit is rather muted but more macerated (Steve calls it “elegant intensity”) and the support comes from the green tea leaf, light tobacco, earthy morel, dried thyme and spice notes.

Kite Tail has always been a very expressive Chardonnay and this iteration is no exception. It deviates from traditional Chardonnay and delves into richer, more mature elements. What’s surprising then is that this iteration has less oak and less malolactic time than previous versions. Yet this still retails a wonderful acidity, character and aroma, not to mention a palate experience that brings in oak-like notes, without the cumbersome oak heaviness. All estate grown, all Chardonnay, this offers a nose of soft muted lemon, resin and butterscotch/gardenia.

A terrific Pinot considering the price, this affordable wine showcases the rustic quality of Sonoma Coast fruit. Obvious strawberry, red raspberry, light pomegranate, and plum fill the palate. The weather along the Sonoma Coast also produces a brambly quality, more macerated deeper and richer red fruits along with an ideal acidity and moderate tannins. Winemaker Heidi Bridenhagen wisely chose to keep the oak treatment minimal, using only 30% new French oak with reduced toast levels. These choices make this great with food - a delicate Pinot Noir that offers some heft and swagger.

One of the great things typical of Oregon Pinot Noir is that these wines have an earthiness to them that California Pinot does not necessarily possess. The fruit is more subdued, and in the case of this Argyle, you get a nice balance, something reminiscent of Burgundy that has expressive fruit, but an earthy, mellow aged quality that drinks very well.

When Pinot Noir vines hit around 20 years of age, they typically show a beautiful maturity of fruit. At a grow elevation of 2,200 feet and planted in limestone soils Calera’s wines show an intensity and acidity other wines only strive for. Soft and lithe, this Pinot is an easy drinking, very amenable wine. There are fruit notes with a little more earthiness, light mushroom and damp leaf. You’ll notice rhubarb, pomegranate, very light cherry with a firm tannic structure to support the acidity. Perhaps curiously, there are not certain flavors that dominate this Pinot, as is typical of many.

It’s always exciting to see a winery launch a new wine and for Acumen, this is their first ever Cabernet Franc. True, they have grown and used Franc for years, just not as its own bottling. This offers tight, dusty tannins supported by a mélange of dark red and black berry fruits. There is an earthy core with light black tea leaves, cigar notes and pomegranate. The oak program is evident (60% new French oak was used) but not overwhelming. Comprised mainly of Cabernet Franc, there are small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot added in to finesse this already lovely wine.

Calera winery has been making wine for almost 50 years. But few people ever visit this winery. It’s way off the normal wine experience, being sequestered in the Gavilan Mountain range near the tiny town of Hollister. But that is also its best quality. There is a lovely viscosity to this Chardonnay - a thickness that rolls over the tongue. Yes, you will find the requisite lemon chiffon, lime kefir, white peach, green apple and Asian pear.