Cristina Mariani-May is the family proprietor of Castello Banfi vineyard estate in Montalcino, Tuscany, (founded in 1919), and co-CEO of Banfi Vintners, a leading U.S. importer of fine wines with over 30 labels. Castello Banfi wines are currently sold in 85 countries. Of Italy’s 45 nationally approved clones for Sangiovese, six are from Castello Banfi. In 2006 Castello Banfi became the only winery in the world to achieve ISO 14001, ISO 9001 and SA 8000 certification.
Granted, wine is part of your family heritage. But if you had not pursued a career in wine, what do you think you'd be doing currently?
Beyond a career, wine is one of my passions, going hand in hand with two other passions - travel and culture. I am blessed to be able to have a life that revolves around those passions, and to share them with my family. If I weren't producing wines, though, I think I would have been working in the art world. I studied Art History while living in Florence; the same passion that I feel for wine is ignited when I am surrounded by beautiful art.
Italian Pinot Grigio has become probably the most successful wine in the U.S. market. In your opinion, how has Pinot Grigio bested Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay?
Pinot Grigio is wildly popular because it is easily enjoyable, pleases as a 'cocktail' wine, and pairs well with a wide range of foods. Our Castello Banfi San Angelo Pinot Grigio is a great example of how versatile this varietal can be. Traditionally Pinot Grigio is grown in the north of Italy, but decades ago we decided to see how it would grow in the warmer climate and richer soil of southern Tuscany, on our Castello Banfi estate. The result was a magnificent expression, true to the typical varietal characteristics of acidity and minerality, but enriched by warm tropical fruit notes, fuller body and a richer bouquet. It's no wonder Americans have such a love affair with Pinot Grigio!
What specific grapes varieties would you like to see the U.S. and Western markets embrace more fully, and why these particular varieties?
People outside of Italy are beginning to discover Sangiovese, and I look forward to them understanding more of its Pandora's Box of character and variability. It makes good wine throughout Italy but reaches its potential for greatness almost exclusively in Tuscany - so much so that it is a quintessential ambassador for Tuscany itself. Sangiovese is nowhere near as promiscuous as Cabernet; it is part and parcel of our unique terroir in Tuscany, and nowhere else in the world can it reach its ultimate expression of power, grace and elegance as it does in Brunello di Montalcino.
So called Cal-Ital varieties do fairly well in California in certain growing pockets. Do these types of wines commit a disservice to the Italian tradition?
What is Italian tradition in a wine if not a sense of place, a purity of varietal character, and a wine meant to be enjoyed with food, as part of life? If Cal-Ital varieties can be made into wines that offer the same expression of Napa, Sonoma, Russian River, and so-forth, without manipulation or imitation, then they honor the Italian tradition.
Crafting a wine is a subjective thing. But should winemakers and wineries pursue critical scores from the wine press as a means of competing in the current marketplace and to please a broader range of palates?
Critical reviews and scores for wines are affirmation that the wine will be enjoyed by those who share the same taste as the reviewer. In winemaking, as in life, we all seek affirmation, but we must never compromise our standards, our heritage, our potential, or our principles in doing so.
Behind the scenes you have helped put in place new tracking and monitoring systems of your wines and have achieved international certification for this. Granted, this is non-sexy to the average wine consumer, but how important is it to the health of a winery?
Producing and offering to the market the most pure and natural wines is of utmost importance to my family. We were the first winery in the world to receive triple ISO (International Organization or Standardization) certification and all along we have followed the philosophy that healthy vineyards and wines are the foundation of consumer appeal. Respect for the environment, our employees and our community are also our core values. These are our uncompromised principles, our standards, and part of what we are all about - so yes, it is important to the health of our winery as it is important to our own health and the health of those who enjoy our wines!
Of Italy's 45 nationally approved clones for Sangiovese, six are from Castello Banfi. Did this happen by accident, or was Castello Banfi actively pursuing vineyards where the approved clones could flourish?
No accident there; when we began planting our vineyards in 1978, there was no credible database of Sangiovese clones, so we undertook that task ourselves. We spent decades researching the clones of Sangiovese to find those that would come together to make the most consistently outstanding Brunello di Montalcino. We worked with the universities of Milan and Pisa, shared the results with our neighbors, and registered the clones with the EU (European Union). We principally use three clones of Sangiovese in our own vineyards, but isolated and registered another dozen that are viable for Brunello in other parts of the growing zone, because there is such variability in the soil structure of Montalcino.
Though women in the wine industry is nothing new and frankly reasonably common, do you still combat any prejudices as a female in a powerful position?
Juggling motherhood and work is my greatest challenge. Any working mother can tell you this. But when you have a career that you love and work with a team of people you admire and trust, then the challenges of "doing it all" seem easier to overcome.
Is the global wine market over-saturated?
Yes. We need to have quality wines from reputable producers. Wines that consumers will love and trust. Our only enemy in the wine business is that producer that makes faulty, bad wines.
What wine regions would you like to visit firsthand that you have not had the opportunity to visit, and why?
I can't wait to visit China. It is fascinating to see how this market is moving, and how the investment level in this developing area is growing. Actual wine production there is in its infancy but it is intriguing to follow the path that it will take
