Ah, the temperamental scallop! If not cooked just right, it is rubbery or mushy – you choose the lesser of two evils. If properly handled, the delicate, but meaty texture sings in your mouth.
Once having accomplished this culinary feat, what wine shall accompany? We asked one winery operations director, one restaurant owner, two sommeliers and one wine shop owner for their suggestions, and they accommodated, revealing a stunning passion for food and wine. The mouth waters in consideration of their inventive unions!
Scallops are one of the most interesting foods to hail from the sea. The rich texture coupled with a delicate essence of flavor never gets lost in the preparation, whether simple or complex. The rich texture and flavor are ideally suited for wines that are equally rich in texture and flavor. The scallop also needs crisp, refreshing acidity to cleanse the palate and prepare the taste buds for another bite. Some of my fondest wine memories around scallops are Gavi (an Italian wine from the Piedmont region made from the Cortese grape), pinot gris from Alsace and even beautiful rieslings from Germany. All three have exotic fruit and spice aromas, great nerve and balance.
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(Editors Note: Grenache Blanc hails primarily from Spain and France and is often used as a blending grape, particularly in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Its nature when presented on its own is often characterized as “fat” or “fleshy”, connoting a strong body, but is balanced by full fruit, floral aromas and accented by a touch of dill. Although fewer than 100 acres are planted to Grenache Blanc in the United States, Spencer Roloson Winery demonstrates sheer confidence in translating grapes from the Esperanza Vineyard within the delta of the American and Sacramento Rivers, into an intense, rich and refreshingly acidic wine. Ironically, Spencer Roloson’s tasting notes writer compares the vineyard site to Châteauneuf du Pape with its deep, mostly sandy soils mixed with small quantities of loam. The richness and food-friendliness of this wine is an excellent match for the richness of the scallops.)
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Whether the wine is white or red will depend on what ingredients will accompany the scallop, but the key point here is texture. A broad white wine will mimic the similar texture of the scallop. Having said this, stay away from big tannins. Pinot noir would be the ideal red. Its provenance would depend on accompanying flavors/textures. – Yoon Ha, Sommelier, La Toque Restaurant, Napa CA.
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This is what I intend to do:
1. Get a half dozen beautiful and bountiful fresh sea scallops from my fishmonger. Will serve two.
2. Clarify a half-pound of sweet butter.
3. Pan sear the scallops to a rich, dark brown crust, while still being almost raw on the inside. The scallops will be very lightly salt-and-peppered before.
4. Cover the sea scallops and keep warm. Don't cover them all the way, as you want the crusty top and bottom to stay that way!
5. In the same pan, add 1/4-cup citrus juice. You could use many types of juice, but I'll use freshly squeezed Meyer Lemon juice because the sweet/tart of Meyer Lemons will be a fine match with Savennières.
6. Scrape all the tasty, crusty stuff from the pan and reduce the juice by 2/3.
7. Add 1/2 teaspoon chopped, fresh thyme and 2-3 Tablespoons roast, chopped hazelnuts. Cook for a minute or two.
8. With the heat on low, add cold, whole butter one Tablespoon at a time. Do this until you have a back-of-spoon coating sauce. Maybe four tablespoons? I'm not certain . . . can let you know soon.
9. Finally, make your gustatory tower:
a. Starch of choice. I'm going for it and doing fine, creamed Yukon Gold potatoes.
THEY NEED TO BE HOT! Make a small pile in the center of the plate.
b. Three scallops on the potatoes (starch).
c. Top generously with the sauce. Use it all, even if it looks like it'll be too much. You'll eat it.
d. Serve two glasses of Domaine des Baumard Savennières 2005, chilled.
The marriage:
Rich scallops (and spuds) - rich wine.
Creamy dish - creamy wine.
Buttery/toasty dish - butter-textured/toffee flavors in wine.
Meyer Lemon - lemon/pear flavors in wine.
Hazelnuts - hazelnuts.
Thyme - earthy/chalky wine.
Holy cow, I can't wait to make this now! – Daniel Dawson, Owner, Back Room Wines, Napa, CA; www.backroomwines.com.