Italy's Molise Wine Region: Where Di Majo Norante Shines

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Perhaps the most obscure wine making region in all of Italy is the region of Molise. Molise is surrounded by Abruzzo, Lazio, Campania, and Apulia. Until 1963, the region of Molise was part of the same political region as Abruzzo (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo was discussed in a previous article). In fact, the food and traditions here are closely associated with Abruzzo. Yet, its closeness to both Apulia and Campania lend it a bit of a southern influence.

The wines of Molise achieved their own independence in the 1980’s with the creation of two DOCs: Biferno (named after the largest river in Molise) and Pentro di Isernia. These hillside areas receive wonderful sunshine and are sandwiched between the Apennines Mountains and the Adriatic Sea. Biferno wines can be red, white or rosé. The whites are predominantly made from the Trebbiano grape along with the Bombino in smaller proportions. The reds are a blend of mostly Montepulciano with some of the Aglianico grape. Wines from Pentro di Isernia can also be red, white or rosé. The whites are the same Trebbiano-Bombino grape blend, while the reds (and rosé’s) are usually a blend of Montepulciano and Sangiovese.

More recently, in 1968 a DOC also called Molise was created. This DOC encompasses the region and allows for white, red, rosé and even sparkling wines. Many grapes are permitted including Aglianico, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Falgina, Greco Bianco, Muscato, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon Blanc, Sangiovese, and others. Molise seems to have all the natural prerequisites for making great wines. Up until now, that potential has not been fulfilled.

Comments

I have a bottle of Di Majo Norante 1997 Biblos and didn't realize I'd had it so long. What is the the likely quality of it and is it too old now (never had it so don't know what to expect)? DP

I think that you or a friend must have brought that wine from Italy.
As far as I know Winebow(DeMajo's importer) does not import this particular wine into the US, now if your in the UK perhaps it's exported there. Biblos is made from the white pontica grape an ancient varietal saved from extinction by Demajo, It is a wonderful white wine and 97 was a great vintage in Molise. Being a white
at almost 12 years of age unless it was stored for the past 11 years on it's side in a COOL
(NEVER above 60 F 15C) DARK cellar with proper humidity, it's probably done. If it was stored properly it might still be quite drinkable maybe even sublime, it certainly woudn't hurt to pop the cork.

I would certainly at least try it. This wine isn't meant to age that long, but depending on the way it was stored, among other factors, the wine could be perfectly fine. If it hasn't gone bad it will probably only taste a little thin, and most likely not have much in the way of tannins.
Don't trick yourself into thinking the wine has gone bad just because it has a tart taste from over-ageing. That is only from there being a lack of tannins which would normaly balance the wine. If it has truly gone bad you will know immediately.
Also, I wouldn't not recommend decanting the wine at all, as it is probably very delicate in structure.

I'm heading to di majo today or tomorrow for a tour. Is there anything I shouldn't miss? We carry their wine at one of my restaurants in the USA. Should I mention that or would that be presumptious?

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