What's Wrong With My Wine? - Wine Flaws from the Cellar to the Glass

When it comes right down to it, a ‘bad wine’ can almost always be attributed to a flaw in the winemaking. A multitude of influences can determine how intense a wine is and thus how it is perceived by the taster, but the actual act of making wine is the catalyst between the grape and the glass – between plonk and quality wines. 

Anyone can squeeze grapes to make juice, let it ferment, and settle. That’s the easy part, and it’s quite natural – ever left a container of juice in the fridge too long?

The legitimacy of any wine, however, is the result of constant attention to detail. Winemakers grapple with potential organic and environmental pitfalls at every turn. The best winemakers anticipate the pitfalls and redirect the wine toward a more enjoyable end. This is true of any wine, whether it is made at home or in a commercial facility.

From the taster’s perspective, any imbalance in a wine can be described ‘bad.’ Anticipating the taster’s perception of a wine several months or years after it has been in the cellar is the real art of winemaking.

There is an arc of potability for any wine. Some arcs are short and steep, leaving an apex of moments when the wine should be consumed. Some arcs are long and even, leaving a wine that can be enjoyed over decades.

On occasion, yes, you might not care for the wine that’s been poured for you – it could be an unfamiliar variety or winemaking style – but there are times when a wine is actually flawed. It could be something as simple as a high volatile acidity, a bloom of brettanomycees, or a poor closure.

Wines today are being made in increasingly hygienic environments by winemakers who are focused on quality. So how do flaws emerge? How do you identify or ameliorate the worst offenders? How do you keep a flaw from emerging in the cellar or once it is in bottle?

Let’s identify a few primary offenders:

Volatile Acidity – (aka: VA; aroma: Nail polish remover) Related to acetic acid, the acid used in the production of vinegar. There is some VA in every wine in the world. Lower levels are found in white wines than red wines, largely because the must is separated from the skins before fermentation. 

Volatile Acidity can be the bane of many a red wine. Extended maceration, cold soaking, high fermentation temperatures, and extended post-fermentation skin contact can all be catalysts for VA. It can be ameliorated with adjustments in pH, sulfur, and by  controlling temperature before, during and after the fermentation, and limiting the amount of time in which unfermenting skins remain in contact with young wine.

Brettanomycees – (aka: Brett; aroma: Mousy, barnyard hay, leather) A spoilage yeast with a tendency to colonize in unsanitary environments. Brett is found in red wines with high pH and low levels of sulfur; and/or red wines with some residual sugar.
Brett is the signature of poor hygiene – or lack of attention to detail – in the winery. It can also be the sign of high pH (>3.5) and residual sugar. When controlled, some Brett can add to the character of the wine. Control begins with cleanliness at every stage of the winemaking process.

If Brett is detected, one fining tool to abet a further bloom is the use of egg whites. The albumin in egg whites binds with the yeasts and settles them to the bottom of the storage vessel. The wine should subsequently be racked from the lees and sterile filtered prior to bottling. There are more high-technology options but they are also expensive.

Aldehydes – (aroma: sherry, methyl esthers) This character is found in wines that are oxidized. Aldehydes, in particular acetaldehyde, form when ethanol (the alcohol in wine) is left in contact with the air (i.e. when an open bottle of wine has been left on the counter for a week).