Washington Wines and Wineries: Paul Gregutt Talks Pacific Northwest Wine

And it would be hard to overestimate the value of the marketing efforts of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates in advancing the quality as well as the visibility of Washington wines around the world.

Q: What needs to happen for Washington wine to become as important and influential as California wine on the world stage?

PG: I don’t expect that to happen. California has close to 500,000 acres of vineyard; Washington has about 35,000. My point in the book is that Washington wines can stand right alongside California in terms of quality. They do not – and should not – emulate the style, any more than a SuperTuscan Cabernet blend should emulate a first growth Bordeaux. Washington’s best are every bit as good as California’s best, just different. And far less expensive!

Q: In what ways, if any, has Washington wine surpassed that of California?

PG: In terms of specific varietal wines, I think Washington Rieslings (all styles, from dry to off-dry to late harvest) are far better than those made in California. The same is true, I believe, for Washington Merlots. These wines are not just different, they are markedly superior at any price point. Washington’s Semillons, Cabernets and Syrahs can stand alongside the best of the Golden state, but I would not go so far as to say they are better, just different.

Q: What major hurdles does Washington face in becoming a wine producing "super power"?

PG: The biggest hurdle is simply availability. There are maybe a dozen brands that are widely available, and another 40 or 50 that reach into the big cities and top restaurants around the country. The other 500 or so are virtually invisible unless you happen to live here. There are no major national wine publications headquartered in the Northwest; that is also a liability.

Q: What Washington regions or producers are particularly underrated?

PG: The most under-rated region by far is the Yakima valley. Some of the best and some of the oldest vines in the state are located there. As for under-rated producers, that’s very hard to gauge. I’m not going to comment on the ratings offered by wine publications for whom I do not write, but they often differ from my own, which are published in the Wine Enthusiast.